The 1818 Society British Chapter

These notes provide information about the venue for the event and how to get there. In addition, there are notes on Llandudno town and attractions in North Wales and Anglesey that reflect the scenery, culture and industrial history of the area. The reunion programme includes visits to sites in Llandudno town, to Bodnant Garden, to BetysY Coed and to the Slate Museum, with a drive through parts of the Snowdonia National Park. Notes on other places of interest are included for those who may wish to extend their visit and take the opportunity to see more of the Welsh countryside and culture. A brief history of Wales is presented at the end of these notes.

A detailed programme and booking forms showing costs will be distributed in mid-February. Forms should be returned to the Event Organizer no later than 28 March. Room reservations should be made directly with the hotel by 28 March: the booking form provides contact details.

VENUE

The 2012 reunion and AGM will be held in Llandudno, North Wales from 11 – 13 May. Accommodation will be in the St. George’s Hotel, a four-star hotel located on the sea front. With an impressive Victorian facade, the hotel promises “elegance and excellence” and recent refurbishment of all rooms and facilities ensures a comfortable venue for the reunion.

GETTING TO LLANDUDNO

LLANDUDNO

Llandudno, known as the Queen of the Welsh Resorts, is a classic 19 th Century seaside resort that retains its Victorian and Edwardian elegance and splendour. Fronted by a wide esplanade and a long pier there are two wonderful beaches, the award winning North Shore and the quiet, sand-duned West Shore. Llandudno has hosted the Welsh National Eisteddfod, an annual festival of Welsh culture, and the Oriel Mostyn is an international art gallery. Rumour has it that it was in Llandudno that Lewis Carroll told Alice Liddell the Alice stories but that seems unlikely. To the west of the town is Great Orme, a rocky promontory rising to over 500 feet (150 m) that provides spectacular views along the coast. During the Victorian era, roads on the Great Orme were still fairly primitive and the steep slopes prevented all but the most sure-footed from reaching the summit. As Llandudno was fast becoming a popular tourist resort, local businessmen latched on to the idea of a cable tramway and 15 months after construction work started, the line was open. On 31st July 1902 the first car moved off from Victoria Station and today, it remains Britain’s only cable tramway. Beneath the Orme there is an old copper mining system and some of these tunnels date back to the Bronze Age; part of the ancient mine is open to the public, providing a fascinating insight into the lives of these prehistoric people.

ADMISSION: Great Orme Tramway: Adults £5.90. Open 10.00 - 18.00

Great Orme Mines: Adults £6.50. Open 10.00 - 16.30

BODNANT GARDENS

Seven miles to the south of Llandudno lie Bodnant Gardens surrounding Bodnant Hall. The Hall is not open to the public as the McLaren family of the Baron Aberconway still lives there, but the gardens are open and are managed by the National Trust. The gardens occupy some 80 acres on land sloping to the west with views across the valley of the river Conwy towards Snowdonia. The gardens have two parts. The upper garden around Bodnant Hall consists of terraced gardens and informal lawns. The lower garden, formed by the valley of the River Hiraethlyn, is known as the Wild Garden. The gardens contain a wide range of plants from all over the world, particularly China, Japan, North America and Europe. In late April and May the collection of rhododendrons should be at their best and early flowering Japanese azaleas should be out. There is a famous Laburnum arch, a 55 metre tunnel, which may be flowering, though it is usually at its best in late May or early June. A comfortable tea room will cater for those in need of a caffeine shot.

ADMISSION: Adults £7.72. National Trust Members Free.

BETYS Y COED

Betws-y-Coed lies in the Conwy Valley in the heart of the Snowdonia National Park. It was founded around a monastery in the late sixth century. The name Betws is thought to be derived from the Anglo-Saxon Old English “bed-hus” a house of prayer or oratory. Today there are fine churches but the town is better known as a centre for walking and climbing. Many great British climbers based themselves in the town to climb in the surrounding mountains before taking on the great peaks in the Alps and Himalayas. The less adventurous may prefer a gentler walk along the Afon Llugwy, crossed by the 15 th Century Pont y Pair (the bridge of the cauldron), which after heavy rain provides a good view of the foaming river. Further up the river are the Swallow Falls. The town has a good range of pubs, restaurants and other eating places and a host of souvenir shops.

THE NATIONAL SLATE MUSEUM

The National Slate Museum located near Llanberis is located in the Victorian workshops on the site of the vast Dinorwig quarry. Slate, ilechi in Welsh, has been an important industry in Wales since before Roman times, but it wasn’t until the 19 th Century that North Wales began supplying roofing materials to the rest of the world. At its peak, Oakley Mine near Blaenau Ffestiniog was the largest slate mine in the world. The Slate Museum is designed as if the quarrymen and engineers have just put down their tools. A row of quarrymen’s houses and talks and demonstrations of slate splitting give a real insight into the life of those involved in the industry, from the skills and technology of the time to incidents of industrial strife and details of everyday life.

ADMISSION: Free

The Snowdonia National Park, established in 1951, lies in the north-western corner of Wales and covers an area of 838 mi 2 (2,170 km 2). The English name derives from Snowdon, the highest mountain in Wales at 3,560 ft (1,085 m), but the Welsh name is Eryri, thought to mean simply highlands. Most of the land is open or mountainous land with the highest, the Snowdon Massif and three groups of mountains over 3000 ft lying in the north – the area most popular with tourists and walkers. The Park’s natural forests are made up of mixed deciduous species, though there are some large areas of planted coniferous forest. A large proportion of the Park is designated as special conservation areas of one sort or another or as Biosphere or Ramsar sites. Rare mammals include otters, polecats and feral goats with rare birds such as the peregrine, osprey, merlin and red kite.

There is a significant amount of agricultural activity in the park as unlike national parks in other countries, Snowdonia and other such parks in Britain, are made up of public and private lands. About 70% of the park is in private ownership. Over 26,000 people live in the Park and annually over 6 million visit, drawn by the dramatic scenery. The National Park Authority governs planning, development and land use to ensure the Park is used sustainably and retains its special characteristics.

A good one or two-day trip would be to travel to Beddgelert, a centre for walking and/or eating, stopping off on the way to visit the Sygun copper mine just north of Beddgelert. A self-guided tour allows you to explore the old workings on foot, in complete safety. There are winding tunnels and large, colourful chambers, magnificent stalactite and stalagmite formations and copper ore veins which contain traces of gold, silver and other precious metals. Travel on to Portmeirion, an Italianate village, famous for its pottery and then to Harlech which has good accommodation for an overnight stop. Drive back to Llandudno visiting Criccieth Castle with magnificent views of Cardigan Bay, or Caernarfon Castle and the Roman Sigontium Fort above the town.

BANGOR

Bangor, a university town, is one of the smallest cities in the United Kingdom. It is situated in a region of outstanding natural beauty where the Snowdonia Mountains reach the sea. The City sits on the edge of the Menai Strait (a narrow stretch of shallow tidal water roughly 14 miles long separating Bangor and the mainland from the Isle of Anglesey). The strait is bridged in two places - the main road is carried over the strait by Thomas Telford's magnificent iron suspension bridge, opened in January 1826, and adjacent to this is Robert Stephenson's 1850 Britannia Tubular Bridge.

The city itself dates back to the founding of a cathedral by the Celtic saint Deiniol in the early 6th century AD. The name 'Bangor' comes from a Welsh word for a type of fenced-in enclosure. Culturally, Bangor is the heart of “Fortress Gwynedd” the last bastion of defence for the Welsh language, which is used as a first language by about 55% of the population. Bangor has its own Victorian pier, severely damaged in 1914 when the coaster SS Christiana crashed into the pier. Restored again in 1971, following threats of being demolished, it now makes a great venue for an evening stroll. Bangor Cathedral has been a place of worship for almost 15 centuries while the Gwynedd Museum and Art Gallery provides an insight into Welsh culture and history.

CASTLES

As noted in the later section on the history of the area, Edward I built a great number of castles to ensure his control of this part of Wales and over the years many others were built. There are too many to detail individually but the most important include the following: Beaumaris, Caernarfon, Castell Dinas Bran, Castell Y Bere, Chirk, Conwy, Criccieth, Denbigh, Dolbardarn, Dolwyddelan, Flint, Harlech, Penrhyn, Rhuddlan, and Ruthin. For detailed information and a map showing the location of the castles see http://www.castlewales.com . All have real interest but the nearest to Llandudno is Conwy Castle and one of the most complete is Beaumaris Castle across the Menai Strait on Anglesey.

An interesting day trip would be to visit Conwy Castle and explore the medieval Conwy town. The walls of the town are complete and unique. In the time of Edward I only Norman and English burghers were allowed to trade in the town. However, to meet the need for honey and beeswax Welsh beekeepers were allowed to enter once a year in September to sell their produce. That privilege is maintained and the Town Council closes off a street for local beekeepers (including John Peberdy). There would then be time to visit Penryn Castle, a National Trust house, built by one of the “slate barons”. Beaumaris Castle could be visited on a trip to Anglesey (see below).

ADMISSION: Most charge an entry fee of about £5 and are open from 10.00 - 17.00.

RAILWAYS

Railways provide an alternative view of Snowdonia. Apart from the modern lines, there is a network of smaller lines, some of which were constructed to serve the needs of the slate or mining industries. These are often drawn by steam engines and use traditional rolling stock and can be an excellent way to see more of the countryside. A modern line from Llandudno to Blaenau Ffestiniog winds along much of the Conwy Valley. At Blaenau Ffestiniog change to the Ffestiniog Railway for the journey to Portmadog on the coast. From here the Welsh Highland Railway takes you to Caernafon. Another interesting short trip is on the Llanberis Lake Railway that hugs the shore of the lake providing fantastic views to the mountains of Snowdonia. For those wanting to reach the summit of Snowdon without the effort of walking, the narrow-gauge Snowdon Mountain Railway a triumph of Victorian engineering, leaves from Llanberis. This is a very popular trip so it is important to get to Llanberis as soon after 9.00am as possible. Don’t be disappointed if the summit is in cloud as the views lower down are still spectacular.

ANGLESEY

Crossing the Menai Strait at Bangor brings you to the island of Anglesey, a less mountainous and largely agricultural area. There are a host of interesting places to visit that cater to a wide range of interests.

Travelling along the south coast a visit could be made to Plas Newydd, the Marquis of Anglesey’s splendid house, with magnificent views of Snowdonia and an interesting collection of Rex Whistler paintings and drawings. Further along is Newborough beach, arguably the finest beach in Britain. Pass on through Rhosneigr and Treaddur Bay to Ellins Tower where the RSPB has a manned observation post. This overlooks the South Stack, nesting ground for a huge number of sea birds while there are chuffs and many wild flowers in the area. Near Holyhead there are the remains of a Roman fort and for bird watchers Cemlyn Bay is one of the only two nesting sites in Britain for terns. From Holyhead it is an easy drive back to Bangor.

An alternative trip is to go north after crossing the Menai Strait. Beaumaris Castle, mentioned earlier, is well worth a visit. A little further north is Cemaes Bay, a pretty little fishing village. Near to Amlwch is Parys Mountain, which in 1780 was the largest copper mine in the world. Walk around the colourful moonscape and wonder at the enormous gaping hole dug almost entirely by hand. The nearby port, Amlwch, was used to ship the ore to Swansea for smelting and the population grew from 100 souls to over 5000 in ten years. There is an interesting visitor centre in the Port which also describes the ship building that took place there - including the construction of a very successful privateer for the South in the American Civil War (it cleverly eluded a blockade of the Irish Sea).

Finally, Anglesey provides a convenient departure point for a visit to Ireland. A fast cat ferry service leaves Holyhead several times a day for the one and a half hour journey to Dublin.

MORE INFORMATION

Much more information on North Wales is available on the internet. To find out more see http://www.visitsnowdonia.info or Wikipedia for information and links to a number of specific sites. Alternatively Google the name of the place you are interested in for links to specific sites.

Although Wales is an integral part of the United Kingdom, it is a country with distinct peoples, culture and language as it is the centre of much Celtic and Welsh history which, in reality, are indistinguishable. Neanderthals lived in what is now Wales about 230,000 years ago but settlement really began after the last ice age, about 9,000 years ago. Mesolithic, Bronze Age and Iron Age features are common. Agriculturally, with the exception of Anglesey, North Wales is a tough place to make a living. Invaders, however, were drawn here by the copper and gold mines, the products of which were traded by sea to the other Celtic lands of Cornwall, Brittany, Ireland and Northern Spain. Following the invasion of Britain the Romans moved westwards and subdued the local tribes. The Romans were led by Plutonius, the same general who quelled Boudicca’s rebellion, and the last stand of the Celts is vividly described by Seutonius. The Romans were in control of most of Wales from about AD 80 until AD 380. However, the Welsh ensured the Romans did not settle here! The Angles and Saxons did no better and in the 8 th century built the 177 mile long Offa's Dyke to keep the marauding Welsh cattle thieves out of England.

In the post-Roman period Wales was divided into a number of separate kingdoms with incursions from the east by barbarian tribes such as the Angles and Saxons (who later became the English). Following the Norman invasion of England, the Normans turned their attention to the west and by 1094 their conquest of Wales was complete. Unfortunately the Celtic tribes of Wales were unable to unite under a single leader until Llywelyn ap Gruffudd, born near Conwy, brought together North and South Wales for the first time in 1250 and was recognised as Prince of Wales by Henry III. He was the last Welshman to bear that title as Henry's son, Edward I, had Llywelyn killed in 1282. He assured domination of Wales by building a ring of the most modern castles, mainly around the coast of North Wales. The forts included Flint (immortalised by Shakespeare in Richard II), Denbigh, Chirk, Rhuddlan, Ruthin, Conwy, Criccieth, Caernarfon and Beaumaris. The last castles were designed and built by the famous French castle architect James of St George. Beaumaris was unfinished but is regarded as the most perfect castle design ever built. Edward’s son, Edward II, was born in Caernarfon Castle and became the first English prince to hold the title of Prince of Wales in 1301. After a number of subsequent revolts, Henry VIII aimed to incorporate Wales in the Kingdom of England. In 1707 Wales became part of the Kingdom of Great Britain and then the United Kingdom in 1801.

In the 18 th Century Wales was transformed by the Methodist revival, leading to a largely non-conformist population, while the Industrial Revolution resulted in a rapid expansion of the coal and iron industries and a rapid increase in population, particularly in South Wales. These industries declined in the 20 th Century.

In spite of the strong English presence over centuries, the Welsh maintained their own language and culture. Nationalist sentiment and interest in self-determination increased steadily, especially during the second part of the last century. In the 1940s the Labour Party replaced the Liberal Party as the dominant political party, while from the 1960s onward, Plaid Cymru gained support. In a 1997 referendum Welsh voters approved the devolution of government from Westminster to a National Assembly for Wales that first met in 1999.

The National Assembly for Wales meets in the Assembly building, the Senedd in Cardiff. There are 60 elected members led by a Presiding Officer. The Assembly has power to make legislation for Wales in 20 “subjects” that include, amongst others, economic development, agriculture, environment health, housing, transport, planning and local government. This means that there may be significant differences between provision of services in Wales and England although core responsibilities, such as taxation and defence remain with Westminster.